This might seem odd, but I’ve always considered my hair just… hair. Not some crown or something I have to care for because I’m supposed to. It’s just hair. Perhaps that’s why it is almost always the victim of my most impulsive ideas. Like that time I got a buzzcut all because I was too lazy to take down the braids I had on, or the one time I bleached my hair by midnight with no help. That did not turn out great.
The point is, I rarely ever stop to think of the why-nots when it comes to my hair; I just go for it. That’s why I decided to experiment with African threading for my first hairdo in over a year. If you’re looking for something different for the summer, here’s why you should look to African threading, with expert tips courtesy of my braider, Deborah Awujoola.
What Is African Threading?
African threading, also known as irun kiko, is a hair technique found in several tribes in Africa, including the Yorubas, from which the name was coined. With irun kiko, or kiko for short, your hair is divided into sections, plaited, and wrapped with thread to make thick locs. The locs are then folded and styled into elaborate patterns like updos or buns.
While I can afford to be carefree about my hair, I still do not want to be in unnecessary pain regarding hairdos. To avoid this, I had to find a great braider gentle enough to deal with short, thick, post-buzzcut hair. My search led me to TikTok: Deborah Awujoola, and here’s how to make and style your kiko.
The Process
Awujoola divides her threading process into four stages, and it all starts with selecting and preparing your wrapping material. “As children, rubber thread was the most accessible option, but you can use other hair extension forms like Brazilian wool and even braiding hair”, Awujoola explains. For the plaits, the Brazilian wool was cut short, and for the wrapping process, longer strands were used.
Prepping The Hair
Once you have that down, gather the rest of your tools and prep your hair for stage two. My hair is pretty much still in its teeny-weeny afro phase, which means thicker, denser curls that require a lot of conditioning and gentle combing out. So, we used lots of leave-in-conditioner, some Eco Style Styling Gel (the green kind) to hold my short hair in place, two tail combs (in case my hair broke the first one), and, of course, scissors.
Sectioning
After prepping, it’s important to section accordingly. For such short, thick hair, Awujoola recommends sectioning in large boxes or bricks and then plaiting. “Depending on how thick you want the locs, you’ll need to increase how big the plait is accordingly”, Awujoola says, further pointing out that the plait is done by adding some Brazilian wool or braiding hair to your actual hair and tying it at the desired length.
Styling
Once you’ve moisturized your hair, plaited and wrapped all your sections, it’s time to style. “We wanted to go with a low, full bun, so we made the locs extra long and thick but not so bulky that it places pressure on the neck”, Awujoola adds. If you want a smaller-sized bun, you should make smaller, shorter locs on much bigger sections.
To style, twist all the locs on one column around each other and tie the end with two strands of wool. Repeat with the other columns and then interlock around each other. At the end of the bundles, connect each column by tying it with some more Brazilian wool and seal the ends with a lighter for a neater look. Finish the look with any cowries, beads, or braces of your choice. And there you have it, a fresh hairdo made by African threading.
What Are The Benefits?
Before I got this hairstyle done, I got several comments on how painful it would be.
“You won’t be able to sleep”
“It’ll give you a headache”.
All valid concerns, of course, but the benefits are worth the worry. For one, Awujoola says threading helps with both moisture and length retention. “Your hair is wrapped and tucked away from harsh elements, keeping them moisturised and protected from breakage”, she continues. When there’s less breakage, length is retained, and you have more visible hair growth in a shorter time. I noticed this when I took the hairstyle down, as I graduated from using a pick for my hair to an actual large comb.
Other benefits include the convenience of it. I love waking up, styling my edges, and calling it a day. Braids make me a bit anxious with all the styling I can do, so I prefer having all the locs tucked into one style. Now that you know just the hows and whys of African threading, read on for some things you should know about the technique.
Anything Else I Need To Know?
Since your hair will be tucked away for an extended period, it’s vital that you properly moisturise your hair before wrapping it up. To maintain your kiko, Awujoola recommends oiling your scalp at least once a week with coconut oil. She also recommends getting a shower cap to avoid exposure to water, as that can cause an itch. Being used to the shower from my baldie days, I forgot to use one once, and the gel gave me a bad case of scalp scratch. So it would help if you kept that in mind.
Lastly, they were not lying: I did have trouble finding a comfortable position to sleep in. But overall, would I get this done again? Most definitely. At least I get to see my forehead glow again; for that alone, I do not see myself getting another buzzcut in the near future.
