Every first Monday in May, scores of publications swarm the streets of Manhattan, New York, for a glance at the looks heading to the Metropolitan Museum of Art [MoMA]. This event has been dubbed the Fashion Olympics. It is an annual fundraising gala, and while its official name is The Costume Institute Benefit, it is popularly known as The Met Gala.

The Met Gala, founded in 1948 by fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert, will be held on Monday, May 5, 2025. The theme for the 2025 exhibition is “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” and the dress code is “Tailored for You,” focusing on menswear and Black designers’ impact on tailoring.

This is the first theme to spotlight Black designers’ profound and often overlooked contributions to the industry. The 2025 theme is deeply associated with the concept of the dandy, especially the Black Dandy.

Understanding the Theme

Originating in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, with figures like Beau Brummell as a key archetype, dandyism was a mode of masculine style.  For some, dandyism was also a form of social commentary, a way for self-made men to assert themselves in aristocratic society. 

The concept of the Black dandy emerged during the era of the transatlantic slave trade. As Monica L. Miller, co-curator of the “Superfine” exhibition and author of “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity,” explains, enslaved Africans were stripped of their clothing and forced into coarse garments, a direct assault on their identity and agency. The act of reclaiming elegance and developing distinctive styles, even within the constraints imposed upon them, became an early form of resistance and self-assertion.

The meticulousness and elegance associated with dandyism became a visual declaration of self-worth and a refusal to be defined by oppressive societal norms. Black dandies have often taken traditional tailoring and infused it with their cultural flair, incorporating bold colours, unique patterns, and distinctive accessories. This has led to innovative and influential styles that have, in turn, impacted mainstream fashion. For example, the zoot suits of the Harlem Renaissance were a uniquely American style born from Black creativity.

While most eyes would be on the lookout for the attendees to see who best interprets the theme, however, there are equally many dead-dropping looks in the Met Museum set up for the Superfine exhibition. So get to know the African brands and organisations that will be at the scene.

Patience Torlowei:

The co-curator, Monica L. Miller, has been very tight-lipped about the designers that will be honoured at the MoMA, but in an Instagram post revealed that there would be designs from André Leon Talley’s closet, including a Caftan by Patience Torlowei.

Torlowei is a Nigerian eponymous brand established in 2017. It evolved from her earlier venture, Patience Please Nig. Ltd., Nigeria’s first lingerie manufacturer. The brand is known for its body-flattering silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and timeless designs often inspired by Nigerian heritage and art movements like Fauvism and Cubism.

Ozwald Boateng:

Another designer honoured is the Ghanaian fashion designer who revolutionised Savile Row tailoring by injecting vibrant colours and modern styles into traditional menswear. Vogue gave snippets of what to expect at the Met Gala with a series of covers with celebrities such as A$AP Rocky and Colman Domingo. They both wore Ozwald Boateng for each of their covers. Vogue stated that Boateng would be present and featured at the Met Gala.

Boateng’s signature style blends British tailoring with African aesthetics, characterised by bold colours and sharp cuts. He served as the Creative Director of menswear at Givenchy and has also designed costumes for major films and collaborated with various brands. He promotes “New Africanism” in his work and received an OBE for his contributions to fashion.

Agbobly:

 The Togolese designer, Jacques Agbobly, stunned the fashion world when he launched his brand in 2020. In its five-year run, Agbobly has been profiled by The Business of Fashion and Paper magazine. He was a semi-finalist in the 2024 edition of the LVMH prize and a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist. A recent photo of the Superfine: Tailoring Black Style exhibition at the MoMA shows outfits from Agbobly’s Togo Vivi Na collection, a love letter to Togo, drawing inspiration from childhood memories, foods, and dress practices.

Agbobly focuses on highlighting Black, queer, and immigrant narratives and their cultural contributions through a global lens. It is known for artisanal materiality and visionary silhouettes that often break down gender binaries. The designs incorporate Black history and artisan traditions, particularly those of West Africa and Togo.

3.Paradis:

The latest photos from the MoMA also revealed that a piece from 3.Paradis’ latest SS25 collection was on display. Founded by Emeric Tchatchoua in 2013, 3.Paradis intricately weaves together various cultural influences. In a discussion with Paul McLauchlan, Tchatchoua expressed that the collection was the product of a six-week sojourn that took him from his ancestors’ village in Cameroon to the Canadian countryside. Tchatchoua identifies as a “third-culture kid,” born in Paris, raised in Canada, with roots in Cameroon. This multicultural upbringing is a cornerstone of his identity and, consequently, the brand’s ethos.  3.Paradis has carved out a distinctive style that blends streetwear sensibilities with couture-like elegance and poetic narratives.  

Iké Udé

The MoMA honours all forms of art, including fashion. The New York Times revealed that among the art collections will be the dandy art by Nigerian artist, Iké Udé. For the Met Gala issue of Vogue, Iké Udé painted Colman Domingo for its cover photo.

Iké Udé is a photographer, performance artist, author, and publisher based in New York City. His photography, often using self-portraits, critically examines identity, representation, and cultural dualities. Notable series include “Sartorial Anarchy,” “Cover Girls,” “Uli,” and “Nollywood Portraits: A Radical Beauty,” which celebrates African identity. He founded aRUDE magazine and authored “Style File.” 

Africa Fashion International

Africa Fashion International (AFI), established by Dr. Precious Moloi-Motsepe in 2007,

 is a company based in South Africa that has evolved into a global platform showcasing and promoting African fashion. AFI’s activities include hosting fashion weeks in Johannesburg and Cape Town and operating retail outlets like House of Nala, which features high-end fashion from African designers.

Africa Fashion International is an official partner of the 2025 Met Gala and one of the major funders of the exhibition, alongside Instagram, the Hobson/Lucas Family Foundation, and The Perry Foundation.